Tuesday, October 25, 2011

First Host Families

After over a year in Paraguay, I am visiting the host family I had during training. I lived with them for 2 ½ months. They are special because they are the first Paraguayans to really interact with volunteers before we have gotten a handle on social norms, language, or even local food. We get off the plane in Asuncion, and (depending on what time the flight came in) we are bussed to our host communities and dropped on our host family’s doorstep. Volunteers are instructed to side step the possibly rocky conversations about religion, sexuality, politics or race that might come up, but other than that, we are very much our American selves. We haven’t yet learned that long, seemingly awkward, pauses in conversation while sipping tereré are perfectly normal. We haven’t yet become accustomed to people wiping their mouth on the tablecloth or picking their nose publicly without shame. We still might feel offended or uncomfortable if someone makes an observation about our weight or skin color. During training, our host families see us make many a fauz pas. They see us react uncomfortably to situations or comments that are perfectly normal and acceptable in Paraguayan society. They have to deal with us accidentally doing and saying things that are perfectly normal in the USA, but inappropriate here. They might see us battle our first bout of homesickness… or physical sickness like continuous vomiting and diarrhea (which must be almost as bad to overhear as it is to experience). Essentially they see us at a very vulnerable stage in our time in-country. We are still learning the basics. We make mistakes with them that after a month or two in country we would never dream of making, and by the time we get placed in our permanent site, we forgot we ever had to learn.

It is hard to be a trainee, but being a host family is challenging too.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

One person's trash, is another person's ground cover...

One cultural difference:

I am facing increasing pressure from my landlady/neighbor to “clean up” my yard. Everyone who sees my yard from the taxi driver to the refrigerator deliveryman, mentions how dirty my yard is. Now I going to set aside the fact that it is socially acceptable here for someone who hardly knows you to tell you that your looks like a disaster, and am going to talk about what is viewed as “trash.”

I am told that my house (usually meaning yard-the overlap between ‘house’ and ‘yard’ is enough for a whole other entry) is full of trash. When I look around, I see wonderful shady yard with some grass and lots of weeds. I do not see old tin roofing, glass bottles or broken toys (like I see in most other peoples yards). That’s because, culturally, I view inorganic litter as trash, and organic litter as… well, weeds no mas. However, in Paraguay trash (basura) can be both organic and inorganic. If you tell a group of Paraguayan children to go collect a bunch of basura, you are likely going to end up with a pile of leaves, sticks and weeds. When I clean up my yard, I pick up the candy wrappers and caña bottles that people have tossed. I don’t pick the groundcover (weeds). Trash is relative; its what you have learned to view as ugly.

For nearly a year now I have “cleaned” my yard as little as possible. When I look around, I just don’t see the trash like other people. To me personally, a yard covered by ground cover/weeds, is more lindo that an area picked clean and dusty with the red dirt of Paraguay. However, several people have informed me that I will “clean” my yard before my parents come to visit, and because I try to be culturally appropriate when possible, I am going to try to do just that.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Standfast, Buenos Aires, and other news.


Now that I have regular and reliable internet access, I am going to try updating this blog similarly to a journal. Before I was just posting copies of my massive emails home to friends and loved ones. This will be a trial run. If, by treating this more like a journal and less like CC on an email, I end up writing in my paper journal less, I will have to reevaluate. But it should mean that my updates will be much more frequent.

Now, for the hot topics I’m thinking about and dealing with currently:

  • I just got back from a Buenos Aires vacation with other volunteers. I’m exhausted with good food, good wine, and amazing tango. I’m also vaguely trying to plot a future that has me living in BA for a while.
  • Departmento San Pedro volunteers (like myself) are on an extended Standfast (meaning PC says we cant leave site or travel) due to the State of Exception President Lugo ratified last week. A State of Exception “provides civil and military authorities broad powers to detain any individual that they suspect of wrong doing. The military and National Police have been mobilized and are currently patrolling San Pedro and Concepcion Departments.” This sounds way more serious and scary than it actually is. Not much has happened, and the Standfast will probably be called off next week. For me, the biggest downside of this is that I don’t get a volunteer visit from the new group of PC Agriculture trainees. I think a trainee would have gotten a lot out of a visit here seeing as how I am:

  1. happy
  2. in a supper authentic campo house
  3. have a great garden
  4. have golden nuggets of wisdom to bestow upon them
  5. have a chuchi new bed and mattress

  • My garden has exploded with more vegetables than I can possibly eat. It has also exploded with more weeds than I can possibly pull.
  • I have successfully made banana bread several times now. It is delicious.
  • My house doesn’t have mice, just finches that flit in and out. I think its rather nice.
  • My land lady finally moved into a house they have been building for months. Unfortunately its located about 8 meters from my house. I planted a small fence of trees to create a sense of separation. Alas they are only about 4 inches tall right now. Maybe I have nothing to worry about. Vamos a ver.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Paraguay update


Time for another email! I made it through the long cold winter here in Paraguay, and now Spring is on its way. I had a wonderful three week visit from Cora, and than a fantastic month long visit from Kate. It was nice to have company for the long cold evenings when the sunset around 5pm. After nearly two months of visitors, it took me a while to get used to being here by myself again.

At least now I can fill up my evenings with Adventures In Cooking. Cora left me some tasty teriyaki sauce, and Kate invented curried madioca (also known as yuca or cassava)! Kate also taught me how to make grilled cheese sandwiches. Slowly but surely, I am learning to feel myself. Having a garden helps this educational process. In order to buy food in town, I have to walk or bike 4 kilometers up hill to the ruta (highway) and wait a half hour or more for the bus.Once Im in town, I usually have to rush a bit to get all my errands done by 2ish, so I can catch the last bus back to my community. Next, loaded down with all my groceries, I walk or bike (down hill this time) the 4 k back to my house. Because shopping is such an ordeal, I eat out of my garden whenever I can. I also get gifted homelaid eggs (highly valued compared to the store bought kind) and peanuts fresh from the field. I still haven't figured out how to cook meat, and haven't bothered to buy any. I got gifted a live chicken by a neighbor. Im hoping it will eventually start to lay eggs. I have come okra and eggplant plants that Im going to have to learn how to cook. Sadly, I still have not figured out how to grow chocolate chips.

Enough about food. My English classes are really taking off. During the last class, I was teaching the kids colors and we played Twister on a homemade Twister board. I have also ben building a lot of fagones (brick, fuel efficient cook stoves) in my site and in sites of other volunteers. Work seems to ebb and flow, although some of this is due to the weather. But things are beginning to speed back up again. Ill be doing some venenos caseros (homemade bug repellent) classes, and doing turnout in my community for a class my boss from Peace Corps is going to come and teach. Also, Ill be building more fagones and hopefully starting on a series of classes about reforestation. Every family that gets a fagone, also gets half a dozen trees. The idea is that people will see that planning a head for things like firewood can help avoid even more deforestation and soil degradation.

Im sure there is more to say, but this is enough for now. I have internet in my house now, so its finally possible for me to communicate by email easily.

Until next time,

-Fiona

P.S. Here are some photos for your perusal.

Carrots from my garden, of which I am very proud.


Cora and I and Iguassu Falls


Kate and I at another volunteer's site, reading in a hammock built for two.


My beautiful Twister board and matt.
English class Twister game.


My neighbor Sol, and my dog Berenjena.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

winter

I have been in Paraguay for 9 months now, and in site for nearly 7. I am completely settled in my little wooden house, and have a garden that’s over flowing with lettuce and hopefully some other vegetables soon. I have my dog Berenjena, who is recovering from a bit she received at the jaws of an other dog… unfortunately her wound got some sort worm infection (I promise that while not pleasant, this is not as gross as it sounds). My neighbors recognized what it was immediately helped me treat her. I also have my cat (of undetermined sex), Shrek, who spends days away from home. But when s/he dose finally decide to spend some at home, s/he is like a living hot water bottle during the cold nights.

Speaking of cold nights, winter started about a month ago. My house is so far from being air tight, that when the wind blows outside, the clothes I having hanging up sway in the breeze. I was wearing several layers of clothing and hats and gloves to bed… but then the “Little San Juan Summer” started, and I was back to shorts and t-shirts! Apparently every year around this time there is a week or two of very warm weather.

In the middle of this heat wave, Cora arrived for a visit. Luckily she packed layers and so was prepared for anything. We have been visiting my neighbors, making venenos caseros (homemade bug repellent) for the garden and working on my garden. We have also been feeling the garden worms I acquired and harvesting their castings for my garden (yum!).

This weekend, Cora and I are going with another volunteer and his visiting friends, to visit Iguazu Falls http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iguazu_Falls where the boarders of Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina meet. Apparently, its one of the most stunning water falls in the world. -on a side note, the movie “The Triple Frontier” or possibly “Sleeping Dogs” staring Tom Hanks is about this area (the illegal trafficking… not the falls). I don’t know when it will come out, but I think they started filming a few months ago.
On the 2nd of July, we will go to the Embassy to celebrate Independence Day (two days early). And then on the 7th of July, I loose one visitor and gain another! Cora heads back to the states, and Kate arrives. Its hard to plan anything too far ahead of time here, but Kate and I will probably work in my garden, start my demo plot (an example of how field crops and abonos verdes can be planed together), and maybe have a few English classes.

I am so glad that a few special people from back home are able to visit me and see my life here.
Jajotopata (Until next time)

-Fiona

Sunday, April 17, 2011

as the months go by

I go online so rarely now, that it is kind of overwhelming when I get the chance. This is part of the reason my updates are so infrequent and rather scatteredly written when they do occur.
Anyway, I am now well settled into my community. I moved into my own house about 3 weeks ago, and the new found sense of privacy is wonderful. Last week I started planting my first ever garden, and acquired a 2 month old puppy. The weather is finally changing and we are entering fall. It’s a welcome change from the heat, although I frequently find myself cold at night and yet sweaty during the day. My little house is very simple although I now have a few luxuries such as a refrigerator and a table. I still don’t have a stove, so I have been doing most of my cooking on a brazero… kind of a little barbeque or by building a camp fire under the thatched roof structure outside my house. Several things, such as a shower, a latrine, and a sink, are still missing from my house, but tranquilo, Ill get around to building those things eventually.
I have several photos on facebook, most of them involve me making the fence to my garden, of which I am very proud. Here is a link if your are interested:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?fbid=529484646586&id=22500047&aid=2038478&l=75cf2c3064

My Spanish is much better now. I can really communicate with people as long as we stay on subject that I have vocabulary for. My Gurani, on the other hand, has not really advanced at all. I can pick out a word here or there, but I don’t speak myself.
My parents are in the Middle East right now, in Oman. My mother got a Fulbright scholarship (que guapa!-“How hardworking!” in Paraguayan Spanish), and I have decided to take some vacation time and go visit them. I am leaving Paraguay on May 1st and returning May 14th. While it seem a little crazy to leave one obscure, beautiful country to go visit another obscure, beautiful country, I am glad I have such an opportunity. How many layers of culture shock can I experience at once?
I am successfully getting letters at my local address, in the near by town. But every so often, a letter addressed there still ends up being routed to the Peace Corps Office in the capital.
If you feel like writing me a letter, or sending me a package the best address to send it to is:
Fiona Martin,
Cuerpo de Paz
Punta Suerte, Santani
Codigo Postal: 8210
Paraguay, South America
Have a wonderful spring! Ill be thinking about you all as I head into autumn down here in Paraguay!

Friday, December 31, 2010

I am suerte

My site is fantastic. I am about to finnish up my third week there. Its not easy, but I knew it wouldn't be, right?
Im living with a different host family every two weeks. So last Monday I moved from my first host family (who had two TVs and internet) to a new family (that has one electrical out let for the whole house, a latrine, a bucket to bath with, and a bed I share with the 10 year old granddaughter). It just goes to show that even with in one community there can be widely diverse living situations. I really life my second host family. Yesterday I ended up teaching a impromptu English class complete with a little blackboard and everything. Latter that evening, me and my 10 year old host sister lay in bed each studying. She studied English, while I studied Guarani. It was adorable.
My main goal in these first few months in community integration. How can I convince people to do intercropping and abonos verdes, if they dont know who I am and if they can trust me? So, I wake up early each morning before it gets unbearably hot, and I go visit a new family. I just sort of show up outside there house and clap loudly (its kind of like knocking). Usually the senora is at home and we all sit down to drink delicious, delicious terere and talk about the weather and how hopefully I will learn some Guarani. People are incredibly patient and usually I usually know enough Spanish and they know enough Spanish that we manage to get the gist of the conversation.
After a good long terere setion, I go back to my host family and eat lunch (consisting of an unknown part of the cow) and attempt to nap in the horrendous heat of midday.
After my nap I either go and visit another family, or stay and hope and study Guarani or agro. technical information. Some days are definitely a lot more productive than others.
I have found that although my language skills in Spanish and especially in Guarani are lacking, I am ahead of the game in awkwardly house calling complete strangers. So much of my job with AFSCME was house calling people and getting them to tell me about their work life, that I find its fairly easy to do the same thing here. I just trip over the language while Im doing it. I have been able to give a few helpful (I hope) tips to my peers as well. But it take people a while to learn that you cant just bluntly ask people "what do you want me to do for you?" or "why dont you use abonos verdes on your fields?" You have to have a discussion and eventually these things come out much more naturally. Eventually people start taking about how the soil is tired and drained of nutrients, and how one of their neighbor plans beans in between his corn- Thus the chance for a discussion about abonos verdes. But even though we were taught in training about the need for a discussion in stead of direct questions for change right off the bat, it is hard for many people take the time that is necessary.
Im not saying that I house call perfectly, but I finally understand why the Peace Corps accepted be despite the complete lack of language and agricultural training.

I picked up some letters in the office today! Thank you so much!
Happy New Years everyone!

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

my site!

ahh! I found out my site today. I am going to visit it for a week tomorrow. My offical home for the next two years is: Calle Arroyense, Punta Suerte de San Estanislao, San Pedro, Paraguay.
Ill tell you more in a week after I have actually visited the place. As of now, all I really know is that they grow alot of sesame and pineapple and that San Pedro is one of the poorest and most politically active departments in Paraguay.
In a few weeks, once I actually know what this all means, Ill update again.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

belated update

Oct. 8th 2010
I am beginning to realize that I came to PC at the right time in my life. You have to have a really strong sense of yourself before you come, or it will swallow you up. Happily, I do have a very strong sense of myself, but I don’t think I did back in senior year when I was first considering the PC. I am really glad I ended up waiting two year. Im going to do a much better job now, than I would have then.

Oct 27th 2010
I have a bigger impact on the kids in my host family than I anticipated. My cousin saw me using flashcards (that I have been making our of poster board due to the lack of index cards in this country), and the very next day she had made some flash card for herself out of blue poster board party disks (she is studying English). Knowing that I have people watching me and imitating my habits, definitely puts me on my best behavior. I want to be a good studious role model, not one that ignores studying to write blog posts….).
I’m going to be sending out semi regular massive email updates, since some people don’t really read blogs. If your interested, and you haven’t already received one let me know and Ill add you to my rather informal list.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

classes and training

Wow have my days been busy! Each hour of the day (or at least the time between 8 and 5) is heavily scheduled during training. When we have training at the main center, we have to take two different buses from our little outer communities. All in all, it takes about 40 mins to get from my casa, to the training center. Not a bad commute, although very crowded on the buses.
My host mother tought me a new, and delicious way to eat oranges. First you cut a bit of the top off, than you peal it with a knife, but leave it encased in the white skin. Then you slowly squise it and slurp up the juice as it rises to the top where you cut off a bit. Once you have gotten all the juice out, you can open it up and eat the pulp (if there is any left).
Very good.